NYC Icons

It was a bright, sunny and very hot day in New York City.  We were up early because we had several things to see that day.  We walked to Battery Park from our hotel and got in line for the ferry to the Statue of Liberty.

 

As we sailed across the harbor, we plotted our strategy.  Only a limited number of people would be able to climb up to the crown and we wanted to be part of that group.  So, we positioned ourselves at the gangplank and sprinted across the walkway to the Statue's entrance.  We had made it!  We were in the group that would be allowed to climb to the crown.  

And so the grueling climb began.  The stairs leading up wind around and around and are very narrow.  They are like a corkscrew.  And, of course, it was hot and humid inside the Statue.  But, no mind, we knew the reward would be well worth any discomfort going up.  The climb took close to 30 minutes as we covered 354 steps (22 stories).  But the view was spectacular!  As we peered out the crown, we had a 180 degree view of Manhattan and the harbor.

Looking out one side, we could look up and see Liberty's arm extended and holding the torch.  Many years ago people were allowed to climb up to the torch by a ladder, but that has been closed off for some time.    Looking out the other side of the crown, we looked down and saw the book held by Liberty.  The date, July IV M DCCL XXVI (July 4, 1776) was visible from this vantage point.  After lots of photos and enjoying the moment we descended to the pedestal level where we learned much about the history of the Statue of Liberty.  One of the things we learned as we investigated and enjoyed the magnificence of the Statue of Liberty is that there are three of them in the world.  THE Statue of Liberty in New York Harbor; a replica in Paris, France and a small replica in Guam.  A couple of years ago I was in Guam and located that Statue of Liberty.  It is was difficult to locate and off the beaten path.  

A gift to America from France to commemorate the friendship developed between the two countries during the Revolutionary War, America built the granite pedestal upon which Liberty rests; the French built and constructed the statue.  Over the years there have been renovations due to wear and corrosion.  The most notable is perhaps the replacement of the original torch during the 1982-1986 restoration that included the complete refurbishing of the raised arm and the replacement of the torch.

Following our time at the Statue of Liberty, we took the ferry to Ellis Island to embrace additional history.  As we entered the museum there was a strong and profound sense of history as we read the signs and looked at the displays.  This was the first federal immigration processing center in the United States.  It served in this capacity from 1892 to 1954.  Despite being subjected to intense scrutiny and long hours of processing, the immigrants kept coming.

Although we did not know their port of entry, Susan and I both added an immigrant family member that we knew had come to the United States prior to 1892 to the records at Ellis Island.  I added my Great-Grandmother, Eliza Ann Braithwaite, who came to the United States from Scotland when she was just 16 years old (probably in 1856).  Susan added her Great-Great-Great-Great Grandfather John Justice Knoeppel who came from Germany.  This visit was a great history lesson on the early settlement of the United States.

After a long and exhausting day, we took the ferry back to Manhattan and walked to the World Trade Center.  Initially we thought to pass it up, but decided since we were there we'd take the time.  Wow!  How impressive the Twin Towers were.  We went to the very top, peered out at the city far below and enjoyed the breathtaking beauty of being so far above.

The Towers were built between 1966 and 1973.  The two towers both rose to more than 100 feet higher than the Empire State Building and became the signature landscape of New York City.  Owned by the Port Authority of NYC, The World Trade Center was comprised of 7 buildings located on 16 acres.  At the time the World Trade Center buildings were completed they were the tallest buildings in the world!  One tower stood 1362 feet high, the other 1368 feet high.  This is over 100 stories!

As we looked back on the trip that took us to the World Trade Center we were very thankful that our decision had been to explore just one more icon of New York City.  After the terrible events of September 11, 2001, we treasure the pictures we took that day and the experience we had.  It is one of the most amazing opportunities we've had in our travels.

The Seven Wonders....

When I first started traveling I never thought much about specific places to visit.  I just wanted to see as much of the world as possible.  Over the years, I've come to realize that there are so many treasures throughout the world and each is unique and special in its own right.  However, with the recent emphasis on the Seven Wonders of the Modern World, and having seen several of them, I find myself wanting to see each one.  I have seen all but Petra in Jordan (going in October 2012), Chichen Itza in the Yucatan peninsula of Mexico and Christ the Redeemer Statue in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.   


The Colosseum in Rome was the first of the great wonders that I experienced.  I have been fortunate to see it twice and walk where the Romans and the lions once fought.   I have sat where Emperors Titus and Vespasian once sat.  Completed in 80 AD, this Flavian Amphitheatre that seated over 50,000 people, provided a variety of entertainment, including gladiator shows and contests with many different kinds of wild animals.  On my second visit I was with my daughter and as we entered the Colosseum she looked at me and said, "I've got chills!"  Due to several major earthquakes over the centuries, air pollution, politics and religious dogma, the Colosseum has deteriorated.  Major renovations have occurred throughout the years, but it is still very fragile.  The Italian people value their antiquities, none more than the Colosseum.  It is one of the most visited sites in all of Italy.  

The Great Pyramid of Giza outside Cairo, Egypt is considered both an Ancient and a Modern Wonder of the World.  It is technically not one of the Modern Wonders of the World, but was designated with "honorary wonder" status following protests by the Egyptian government since it is the oldest and only Ancient Wonder of the World.  

My first view of this was from the plane as we circled over the city on our landing approach.  It took my breath away!  

The awe and wonder this pyramid and the others inspire is amazing.  To think that it was built about 2560 BC by the Pharaoh Khufu to be used as his burial tomb, long before we modern beings had developed computers, pulleys and construction technology, and that it is still standing without any major damage or renovation is simply unbelievable.  At one time this pyramid was thought to be the tallest building in the world at 480 feet!  As one examines the pyramid, it is hard to understand how the Egyptians managed to lift the heavy limestone blocks up as they built this tomb.  Historians and archaeologists have speculated that the Egyptians had devised a levering and pulley type of system that allowed them to drag the blocks from a quarry, build up and then move up with each level completed.  It is estimated that there were over 5 1/2 million tons of limestone used to construct the Great Pyramid of Giza.  

As one walks into the chamber it is small and narrow.  Instead of entering on a level plane, one walks down a sloping path to an anteroom or chamber where there are remnants of gifts for the late Pharaoh.  It is small and only a very small number of people can be inside at one time.  To exit, one must climb up the long narrow walkway which has a very steep slope...perhaps 6-7%.  

Like the Italians, the Egyptians have great pride in this "Wonder."  They are eager to show it off, but have very strict rules governing visitors.  Close to the Great Pyramid and its neighbor pyramids rests the Sphinx that is thought to keep watch over all three.  It is a particularly beautiful sight in the middle of a barren desert.  During the daytime, it is massive and overpowering.  At night, under the stars and at a light and sound show, it takes on a very ethereal quality and the sense of wonder is amazing.

Machu Picchu in Peru is yet another true wonder and the third of my visits to the Wonders of the Modern World.  Located high in the Andes in the Amazon area of Peru, Machu Picchu sits high atop a mountain overlooking the Urubamba Gorge and is a remnant from the ancient Inca civilization.  To get to Machu Picchu, one must take a train to Aguas Calientes, and then a 20 minute bus ride that covers an endless number of switchbacks up a very steep mountain road.  

Once we arrived, we entered the Sanctuary and experienced the wonder and majesty of Machu Picchu!  As I wandered and climbed through the ruins, I was impressed with the beauty of it all.  Built during the 15th Century, the question is:  How did the Incas get the stones and rocks from the quarry that is located on the other side of the river and down in a deep valley?  Like the Egyptians, they did not have the modern equipment we have today to transport these heavy stones.  Nor did they have the equipment to measure and build this masterpiece to minute specifications.  It made me wonder, just how advanced we really are.  As I looked at the rocks placed side-by-side and one-on-top of another, it would be virtually impossible to place even a thin sheet of paper between them.  And they were perfectly smooth and squared.  

I was struck with the similarity between Machu Picchu and the Great Pyramid of Giza.  Centuries apart, across great oceans and treacherous land masses, and without modern forms of communication, yet they achieved similar fetes.  They constructed marvels that have defied nature and human beings and survived relatively unscathed.  

Like so many of the fabulous sites throughout the world, Machu Picchu was "lost" for many years, probably from the time of the Spanish Conquistadors who conquered the area, until rediscovered in 1911 by Hiram Bingham.  Despite uncovering these ruins, historians still do not have all the answers to the whys and wherefores of Machu Picchu.  The one thing they all agree on is that the Inca civilization was very advanced!

The Great Wall of China is yet another miracle of ancient craftsmanship that has defied the odds and survives to this day.  Built between the 5th Century BC and the 16th Century AD, the Chinese sought to keep the invading Mongol tribes out of China.  It is said to be the longest man-made structure.  It stretches over 4,000 miles along the northern Chinese border.  There are many places to access the Great Wall, but the most visited is a location about an hour outside of Beijing.  

It has been stated that the Great Wall is the only man-made object that can be seen from space with the naked eye.  However, the many astronauts from the US, even China, have stated they could not find the Great Wall without high powered binoculars.  The reason for this is that the wall is built from bricks, stones and the surrounding earth, so it blends into the rest of the landscape.  At its widest point, the wall is no greater than 30 feet across.  

Walking on the Great Wall (more like climbing) is not for the feint of heart or those with little physical stamina.  It is a tough climb.  There are areas where the wall is flat and has a gentle slope and easy to walk on.  In other areas I encountered stairs that were 12 inches in depth and only about 4-6 inches across each step.  The good news was that there were railings in these areas to hold on to and help pull yourself up.  But the higher I climbed, the better the view.

There are watch towers all along the tower that were used for communication by the Chinese that today provide good rest stops to catch your breath, get out of people's way and enjoy the view.

The Taj Majal in Agra, India is a gorgeous testament of the love a man had for his wife.  Like my daughter entering the Colosseum in Rome getting chills, that was my response as I entered the courtyard where the Taj is located.  I just stood there in a complete trance for a few moments, drinking in the sheer majesty and beauty of this beautiful monument.

Built by Emperor Shah Jahan following the untimely death of his beloved wife this mausoleum is constructed entirely of white marble.  Throughout there are walls inlaid with precious and semi-precious stones.

The Taj took over 15 years to build, but the Shah never saw it except from the cell where he had been imprisoned by his son. Following his death, he was laid to rest inside the mausoleum next to his wife.  The Taj is considered to be one of the most outstanding examples of the Mughal architecture and design.  It is a combination of Persian, Turkish and Indian design.  While the mausoleum is the focal point of the complex, it is one of many structures on the site, including four minarets, one at each corner, a mosque and a palace.  

The grounds surrounding the Taj are beautifully manicured and there was a sense of serenity as I wandered and took photos.  A visit to India is incomplete without a visit to the Taj Mahal.  If I had not been able to see anything but the Taj, I would have said that I saw all that was necessary of this great country! 

With all these fantastic adventures, I can't wait to experience and explore the remaining Wonders of the Modern World!

Ballooning Down Under

Several years ago while watching "Survivor Africa" a couple of the participants won a hot air balloon ride over the Massai Mara area.  It looked very exciting.  I made a promise to myself that someday.....  Well, someday arrived when I was visiting Australia.  When we arrived in Cairns there was an opportunity to go for a hot air balloon ride one morning.  I didn't even have to think about this.  I signed up and paid my money.

We were picked up about 4:30 AM and driven to a cliff where the balloons lift off.  It was pitch black outside, yet there were dozens of people running from balloon to balloon.  There must have been 10 balloons, completely deflated and lying on their sides.  And, it was cold!  We stood around and watched as the balloons slowly began to take shape and came to life.

Once the balloons were ready for flight, we were allowed to "board."  In order to take a flight on a balloon, one must be able to get themselves in and out of the gondola without assistance.  Climbing into that basket required some real gymnastics.  The sun was coming up and the sky was getting lighter every minute and it was still cold!  But, up we went.  What an exciting moment it was.  I was surprised at how quiet everything was once we were about 75-100 feet in the air.  The only sound was the burners sending heat up into the balloon to keep us flying.

As we watched the earth recede, we had a fantastic view of the ocean and the hillsides; the cliff where we had started and the farmland below.  We were even above the marine layer at times on our flight, but it was a beautiful and very ethereal sight and feeling.  We also spotted the chase car under us following along so that we could be picked up when our ride concluded.  There were several balloons up at the same time. 

Once our ride was finished and we were back on solid ground, we each had to climb out of the gondola, again, unaided.  Much easier than getting into the basket.  Then our work began after the thrill and fun of the balloon ride.  Everyone had to work together to deflate the balloon and fold it up, ready to be hauled back to the takeoff site for the next day's rides.  

The final part of our journey was a champagne breakfast served at a local country club.  It was a perfect ending to a perfect ride!

Snorkeling Around the World

When I travel to a place known for its beaches and water sports I am always asked if I dive or snorkel.  I snorkel and have done so in some phenomenal spots around the world.  There are very differing opinions on the best place to snorkel.  I have been amazed at some places and disappointed in others. All are beautiful, but very unique.  One of the most beautiful I have snorkeled is Trunk Bay in St. John, USVI.  One can wade out for several yards before reaching the coral beds and finding fish, but the water is crystal clear and the beach is gorgeous!  One of the unique things about Trunk Bay is that there is a snorkel trail over 600 feet long, complete with fifteen underwater plaques describing the fish and coral that inhabit the bay. This trail guides snorkelers on their exploration.  The one drawback for the experienced swimmer and snorkeler is that everyone must wear a life vest that really inhibits the ability to dive under the water. 

Swimming with the stingrays in Grand Cayman was something we really loved. .  These incredible fish are very tame and nuzzle the swimmers seeking food.  Their skin is soft and they are gentle.  Stingray City, as it is known, is off the shore a little distance, but the water is only three feet deep and there are dozens of tame stingrays that inhabit the area.  In addition to the stingrays, there are many other fish and a coral reef in the area. 

Also in the Caribbean one can swim with the Barbados Turtles off the coast of that island.  Like the stingrays, they are gentle and used to human beings.  Their primary mission as they swim around is looking for food.  When one snorkels with the turtles, it is done without fins, as the fins can cause damage to the turtles.  Their shells are hard and leathery and we were warned not to try to touch their heads, tails or feet (flippers) as they are very soft and the turtles don’t like that. 

A trip to Australia is not complete without a visit to Cairns and the Great Barrier Reef.  Having snorkeled in so many fabulous and beautiful places, I looked forward with anticipation to my opportunity at the Great Barrier Reef.  We boarded a boat and traveled about 45 minutes after leaving shore.  We arrived and “docked” at a floating pier, donned our snorkel gear and dove in.  I looked all around and didn’t see many different kinds of fish.  There were a few, but not that many.  I continued looking and found some bleached coral, but none of the beautiful and colorful fish or coral that the pictures portray.  To say I was disappointed would be an understatement.  I had been led to believe that this was the most amazing place in the world to snorkel and it wasn’t.  While others in the group oohed and aahed about what they were seeing, I kept my mouth shut and kept trying to find the beauty that was supposedly there.  I never did.  The Great Barrier Reef has been over snorkeled and too many divers, so it is an endangered area which may account for the lack of fish and the pale and ordinary looking coral.  Though disappointed, I was glad to have the opportunity and it allowed me to put my other snorkel adventures in perspective. 

From my experience, the very best snorkeling I’ve ever done was in Sharm el Sheik, located on the Red Sea.  Talk about beautiful!  Wow!  The water is so clear that one can see the fish from the pier before ever entering the water.  The many varieties of fish are tame and tease the snorkelers as they swim around darting between your legs and arms.  The varieties and colors of the fish and coral are magnificent!

Customer Service, Please!

I was returning from Bangkok, Thailand and had a fairly long wait in the airport prior to boarding the plane.  The Suvarnabhumi Airport is like a city within a city.  There are what seem like miles and miles of shops.  Some carry souvenirs of Thailand and Southeast Asia.  Others are high end designer stores that offer very expensive merchandise like Coach, Versace, Gucci, and Juicy Couture.  There are also several restaurants and food courts to explore while waiting.  So, I spent quite a while wandering in and out of the various shops once I had checked in and passed through security.

With about 45 minutes until boarding time, I decided to make my way to my gate and relax.  There was an additional security checkpoint prior to arriving at the boarding gate.  When I got to my gate and started to find a seat I realized I was missing some pictures I had purchased during my trip.  They were rolled up in a brown paper tube, about 30 inches long.  I had my backpack, camera and purse, but no tube of pictures.  I went to the gate agent and told him what I was missing and asked if I could go back up to security to see if I'd left them there.  "Of course, and we will watch your carry-on while you look."  Wow, I thought!  That's nice and proceeded to return to security.  They had nothing and even helped me look.  They allowed me to exit the security area and go back to see if the tube had been left in the restroom or at a store.  After spending about 15 minutes looking I gave up, figuring someone else must have needed them more than I did.  The good news was that I hadn't spent a great deal of money on the prints.  So, I returned to the boarding area. The airline personnel said the'd go look and see if they could find the tube.  They, too, came back empty handed.  I thanked them profusely and told them how much I appreciated their efforts.

Just as we were boarding the plane and I was about to go down the jet-way, one of the gate agents came running up and called down to me.  In her hand was the tube with my prints.  I never had a chance to find out where she found them, but I did thank her profusely as she dropped them down to me from the floor above.  I was so impressed that I emailed the airline as soon as I returned home and thanked them for their outstanding customer service.  I have never had such a wonderful experience as I did with EVA Airlines on this trip.

But Is It Safe?

The date was February 2002.  It was just 5 months after 9-11 and I had been asked to be part of a school accreditation team in Dubai, United Arab Emirates.  As I talked on the phone with the Director I mentally pictured the map.  The UAE was on the Persian gulf, across from Iran and on the Arabian peninsula.  "Yes, I'd love to be part of the team," I responded.  That afternoon when I told my daughter about this invitation, she was not happy.  All she could think was that it was an unsafe part of the world to visit.  She didn't want me to go. Then she decided if something happened to me, she wanted to be with me, so she asked if she could come along.  I told her I was sure it would be okay, that she'd have to pay her own airfare and expenses, but could stay with me.  So, she asked for a week off from her teaching job to accompany me on this trip in March.  

We flew to London where we had less than 24 hours, but made the most of our time there, visiting Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, Big Ben and all the important sites.  We ended up having a hamburger at the original Hard Rock that night before returning to our hotel.

The next day it was the 2nd leg of our flight and we arrived in Dubai in the middle of the night.  7:30 AM the next morning came way too quickly and we were off to visit the school. What a fantastic school it was!  An international school with all subjects taught in English except high school social studies.  It was fun to watch the Pre-Kindergarten (3 1/2 years old) children arrive at school.  Their first lessons were in French.  They sang, danced and responded in French, all while learning vocabulary.  Later in the morning they switched to Arabic, and before the day's end, they were using English for all their lessons.  By the time these youngsters reached 1st Grade (in two years) they would be fluent in three languages!  Perhaps the most unusual thing about this school was in their history classes.  All maps of the Middle East identify Palestine, but not Israel!  The students all knew this was incorrect, but because the Minister of Education dictates the maps, that is what the children see and are taught.  Despite this one rewriting of history, the school was really wonderful to visit.  The high school science classes were equipped with state-of-the-art equipment; there was technology throughout the school; and students were preparing for post-secondary educational options.

While our days were spent visiting the school, the evenings were taken up investigating the surrounding area.  A visit to the gold souks was great. We all left a few American dollars after purchasing beautiful jewelry that was very reasonably priced.  A tour of the Dubai Museum gave us a snapshot of the history of the city and its environs.  And a trip into the desert where we went dune bashing (riding in a jeep over the sand dunes), ate a true Bedouin dinner, had henna painted on our hands and rode a camel added to our memories of this beautiful and friendly country.

One afternoon we took a taxi to the Burj al Arab Hotel, the world's first, and at that time, only 7 star hotel.  It cost us $20 each just to go inside and we were limited as to where we could go: the lobby, the restaurants and bar, the top floor restaurant and the mezzanine where there were shops.  However, we did enjoy a drink for our $20 fee!  While there we waded in the Persian Gulf.

Our trip was over far too soon, but we found Dubai to be one of the safest and most enjoyable places we had visited.  As you can see from the pictures, we did not need to wear the abaya or veils, just dress modestly.  We often felt safer there than we sometimes do at home in the US.  The taxi drivers were all business and their cars were metered.  There was no one trying to entice us to go with them or get our attention or sell us anything.  This visit was very much of an opportunity to see a very positive side of the Middle East.  We both agreed that we want to return to Dubai some day, especially now since they have built so many new and interesting hotels on reclaimed land.

Cruising the Caribbean

If you want to visit the Caribbean the best method of travel is to take a cruise.  All of the big cruise lines sail year round in this area and they have short itineraries (4 days) to longer ones lasting up to 14 days.  Jumping off places include Texas, Louisiana, Maryland, New York and various ports in Florida.  Or, many cruises begin and end in Puerto Rico.  I've done both.  The only difference is the islands you will visit.  It is always a good idea to plan on arriving at your embarkation location the day before you sail, just in case there are unexpected delays.  That way you have a chance to explore for an extra day.  Through cruising, I've visited 17 of the islands in the Caribbean and found this a wonderful way to get a snapshot of each.  Some I have visited more than once and others I have no desire to see again.  

There are small ships and those that are like an entire city.  But do not think there is nothing to do.  There is something for everyone.  If you want to gamble, there are casinos in the evenings; horse racing and bingo during the daytime.  If you want to swim and spend time in the sun, there are often multiple pools, some that prohibit anyone under 18.  There are art auctions and wine tastings.  There are shops where you can spend a few dollars on trinkets to several thousand dollars on beautiful jewelry.  The entertainment at night is fabulous!  And of course, there are the port days.  

The advantage to cruising through the Caribbean is that the ships offer a huge variety of shore options that will satisfy every taste.  If all you want is to swim and go to the beach, that is always available.  There are party boats that will take you snorkeling and provide you with food and beverages following your snorkeling.  There are cultural tours that will allow you to see some of the history of the island.  There are shopping tours for those whose sole desire is to spend money!  And, there is much more.  Of course, you can also hire a taxi or a driver, or even rent a car, yourself, to explore the island.  The one challenge there is to make sure you are back by the time the ship sails.  The ship waits for you if you are on one of their shore excursions, but if you go off on your own, you are "on your own!"  If you miss the ship, it is VERY costly to get you to either the next destination or to the ship.  Of course, there are tour companies who book cruises, but then you are tied to the tour company's itinerary which may not always be appealing to you.  Cruising should be done independently!

Never Again!

Upon my return from a trip to Morocco a couple of years ago, I said to my daughter and son-in-law that I was finished with tours!  I loved Morocco and all that we saw, but the tour itself was a challenge.  There were 39 of us after being guaranteed no more than 20, all very experienced travelers.  Yet our guide chose to treat us as if we were all novices at the travel game.

This short description is typical of what happens on many tours.  But, there is more that one can expect if traveling on a tour.  Seats will be assigned and you must move to a different seat everyday.  It doesn't matter that you really enjoyed talking with the people across from you yesterday.  Sorry.  Move on!  Also, you may be assigned an aisle seat as a person who likes to take lots of photos and the person by the window doesn't even own a camera!  Bathroom breaks are planned for 20-30 minutes, yet they nearly always turn into a 45 minute stop at some out-of-the-way location with expensive curios that no one wants and snacks that are over-priced.  Of course there is always the couple who are no where to be found when the bus is ready to leave and so you end up waiting a little longer while the guide hunts them down.  When they return to the bus, they smile sweetly and make no excuses for being late.  I would at least have the courtesy to say something like, "I lost track of time,." or "My watch stopped," or some other inane comment.  And, I would be so embarrassed that I'd make sure to be the first one back in the future.  But not this type of person.  They don't realize that there is anyone but them on this tour and the guide does little or nothing about them.

Then there is the guide who decides to change the itinerary for his/her own reasons and doesn't share it with the members of the tour.  When traveling in Africa we were scheduled to take a sunrise camel ride into the Sahara. This didn't fit the guide's desires, so it became a sunset ride.  Big difference!  When we complained, it was met with a shrug of the shoulders.  In addition, there are the guides who don't want you to wander during your free time.  They want to control all that you do and where you go.

For the experienced traveler, this kind of regimentation takes away from the enjoyment of travel.  However, if you are not very experienced, especially at international travel, then find the best tour company you can afford, and understand going in that your time and sightseeing will be somewhat regimented.  But do travel!  It is the most wonderful thing in the world, no matter how you go.  

The Bottom of the World

Many people have asked me what country/location was my favorite.  That is a tough question as every locale is different.  There are a few that stand out as being sensational.  One of those is Antarctica.  On December 27, 2007 my daughter and I flew to Ushuaia, Argentina, by way of Santiago, Chile.  Flight time was about 14 hours with a couple of hours in the Santiago airport.  Even though we were international transit passengers, we were required to go through customs/immigration and pay a $100 fee to "enter" the country!  Apparently this fee was payback for fees that the USA charges Chileans to enter our country. The good news is that the fee is good for 10 years, so guess we need to return before 2017 in order to get our money's worth.

When we finally arrived in Ushuaia, and checked into our hotel for the night, it was late afternoon.  Since we had but 24 hours there, we set out to investigate this quaint town at the end of the world.  Signs throughout the town read, "Fin del mundo."  And, it was true, there is nothing once you leave land for miles and miles.  Ushuaia reminded me of the Alpine villages one sees throughout Switzerland and Austria.  The houses and buildings look like chalets and the town is built on hills.  It was very colorful and charming.

While in Ushuaia we were treated to a tour of Tierra del Fuego, a group of islands at the very tip of the Argentine peninsula.  It was a gorgeous lush, green area with beautiful flowers as far as the eye could see.  By 4:00 that afternoon we boarded our ship, the Lyubov Orlova, along with about 100 other passengers.  This was going to be a phenomenal trip and we were excited.  We set sail and prepared for rocky seas, but the travel gods were smiling on us and the Drake Passage was as calm as ever going in both directions.  The 1st morning we  saw birds:  petrels, albatross and skuas flying along to keep us company.  There were several lectures about Antarctica, its exploration, and what we would see once we arrived.

Because of the calm seas, we were ahead of schedule and were treated to a spectacular sight on New Year's Eve.  We had our first landing in Antarctica!  And it was fantastic!  We jumped around and took it all in as raced up and down the hillsides taking photos of the seals and penguins as well as each other.  What a great ending to 2007 and a fabulous beginning to 2008.  Each day for five days we made landings in Antarctica and each was different and better than the previous one.  The highlight was when we actually set foot on the Antarctic continent.  There were approximately 25% of the passengers who had achieved their 7th continent on this trip and we were thrilled to be a part of that group.

It was snowing as we made landfall, but we didn't care.  We had achieved a long held dream of visiting all 7 continents!  This was an exciting moment for everyone.  There was a peacefulness about visiting Antarctica that one does not often find in traveling.  Because there are no humans who live there permanently, only birds, seals and penguins, it is a pristine environment.  There is no trash or litter of any kind as everyone is admonished to not leave anything, no matter how small.  We saw three different kinds of penguins:  Chinstrap, Adelie and Gentoo.  They are all fun to watch and waddle as they walk.  But, they are all business.  As I was walking along on one of our landings, a Gentoo penguin walked right up to me, looked up as if to say, "You are in my way.  Please move."  I stood perfectly still and took his picture.  He finally got tired of waiting for me to move and went around me.

We saw several different kinds of seals at our various landing sites:  Elephant, Crabeater, Leopard and Weddell.  Most were sleeping and not terribly interested in the human beings around.  This Weddell seal was snoozing in the sun one morning as we visited Port Lockroy, a British Museum and Post Office that is open for six months a year.  

The most amazing day was our last landing before starting our return trip across the Drake Passage and returning to Argentina.  The sky was crystal clear and very blue with puffy white clouds and the sun shone brightly on the glaciers.  The water sparkled and was serene and calm.  The temperature was balmy and it was a perfect last landing.  We climbed the hills that were laden with snow, watched some of the glaciers calve and enjoyed the penguins running up and down their "penguin highway."

That same day we were treated to a great display put on by some humpback whales we encountered.  Our ship's captain let the ship drift in the water for over an hour as we enjoyed watching the whales play and entertain us.  It was truly a fantastic last day in Antarctica!